The Ordinary’s $9 Caffeine Serum Made People Ask What I’d Changed
Usage Guide
Overview
If you’re buying, mine’s a flat white with an extra shot and a dash of hazelnut syrup. And while I prefer to get my caffeine fix in coffee form, it seems I might be missing a trick when it comes to skincare.
This month, The Ordinary lifted the lid on its new Caffeine 3% + Escin 1% Face Serum, which it calls an “energizing face serum to instantly refresh tired-looking skin.” As a longtime fan of all things The Ordinary, and who recently went through a stressful period that led to dullness, breakouts, and hyperpigmentation, it went straight into my bathroom cabinet.
Here’s everything you need to know about the new product and why it’s already racking up hundreds of five-star reviews.
The Ordinary Caffeine 3% + Escin 1% Face Serum, $9
What is The Ordinary’s Caffeine 3% + Escin 1% Face Serum, and what are the benefits?
According to The Ordinary, the latest addition to its burgeoning serum family firms, energizes, tones, and tightens skin. These are certainly bold claims, but the brand believes it can back them up with a handful of effective ingredients.
First up, caffeine. Consultant dermatologist Dr. Derrick Phillips tells me that while we’re often advised to limit the amount of caffeine we consume, applying it to the skin is a different story. “Caffeine is used in skincare for its antioxidant properties,” says Dr. Phillips, which helps protect skin against dulling environmental aggressors like pollution and UV.
There’s more. “Its ability to temporarily constrict blood vessels can help to reduce the appearance of puffiness, which is why it is commonly included in under-eye creams and serums,” adds Dr. Phillips. He explains that when applied topically, caffeine acts locally rather than having the whole-body stimulating effects associated with drinking coffee. That said, the results are generally temporary, explains Dr. Phillips: “It will all depend on the concentration of caffeine and the overall formulation of the product,” he says, “but it can be a useful ingredient for making the eye area look less puffy and more refreshed.”
Then there’s escin, not to be mistaken for ectoin, the moisturizing ingredient. I consider myself something of an ingredient know-it-all, but even I hadn’t heard of it before. Dr. Phillips says that escin, also known as aescin, is a mixture of naturally occurring compounds called triterpenoid saponins. “These are derived from horse chestnut seeds,” says Dr. Phillips, adding, “Escin has anti-inflammatory and anti-swelling properties, which is why it is sometimes included in skincare designed to soothe the skin and reduce the appearance of puffiness.” Escin could also provide similar antioxidant benefits to caffeine, but Dr. Phillips says that the research on its skin rewards is currently lacking.
Besides these two, there’s also dry skin-quenching glycerin — an ingredient I look out for in all my serums and moisturizers. Not only is it non-comedogenic, so less likely to clog pores and cause breakouts, but it’s also considered a humectant, so it draws much-needed moisture into the skin, making it smooth and plump.
What makes The Ordinary’s Caffeine 3% + Escin 1% Face Serum special?
The multiple five-star reviews for The Ordinary’s Caffeine 3% + Escin 1% Face Serum speak for themselves. One user says they wouldn’t be without the serum, while another praises its ability to make their skin appear more awake and energized. One simply refers to it as “age-reverse.”
Since incorporating it into my skincare routine over the last three weeks, I’ve been wearing much less foundation and concealer because I’m convinced my skin looks brighter, radiant, and more even in tone. Applying a full pump of CC cream has felt like a little too much for me, which I think is a testament to the 3% caffeine. Thanks to the high concentration of glycerin, my skin feels a lot more moisturized, too, and on some days, when it’s too hot for a full skincare routine, I just apply a generous amount of the serum.
Details
I haven’t noticed any change in my facial structure, but serums in general can only do so much, and it seems Dr. Phillips agrees: “A topical serum may temporarily reduce puffiness and improve hydration, which can make the skin appear fresher, smoother and slightly more defined, but the effects of a serum are limited to the skin,” he tells me. It’s not all about your collagen, either, as Dr. Phillips explains: “Facial shape and structure are also influenced by the underlying muscles, ligaments, fat compartments, and facial skeleton, which a topical product cannot alter.”
That said, at a recent beauty event, an editor peer took one look at me and asked if I’d had work done. I hadn’t — just the serum — but when I asked what they were thinking, they said my skin looked smoother and glowing, sort of like a Botox effect. Interestingly, Dr. Phillips says that any immediate lifting or contouring effects like these from serums are likely temporary, thanks to a boost in the skin’s hydration levels or reduced puffiness. Still, I’m impressed.
What to know about The Ordinary’s Caffeine 3% + Escin 1% Face Serum
• Contains 3% caffeine and 1% escin to boost hydration, radiance, and firmness, while bacillus ferment keeps skin strong and supple.
• Can help reduce morning puffiness when massaged into the skin for one to three minutes.
• Suitable for all skin types and can be used in the morning and evening.
How do you use The Ordinary’s Caffeine 3% + Escin 1% Face Serum, and is it worth it?
I find that hydrating, milky serums like this work best when applied after cleansing (to dry skin) and before moisturizer or sunscreen. In the morning, I wash my face with a gentle cleanser (I like Dermalogica Magnetic[+] Afterglow Cleanser) and pat a pipette-full of the serum onto my skin. Once it’s absorbed, I wait a couple of minutes before applying my sunscreen — Thankyou Farmer Sun Project Light Sun Essence SPF 50+. Because this feels so replenishing, I tend to skip moisturizer altogether. In the evening, I double cleanse, apply the serum, and follow with Hada Labo Tokyo Plumping Gel Cream. A few nights a week, I swap the serum for retinal to exfoliate and keep my hormonal skin in check.
If you’re after an instant glow boost without the need for makeup, you won’t be disappointed by this serum. Who knows, people might even think you’ve had a tweakment here or there…
Where can you get The Ordinary’s Caffeine 3% + Escin 1% Face Serum?
The Ordinary’s Caffeine 3% + Escin 1% Face Serum retails for $9 and is available at theordinary.com, ulta.com, and nordstrom.com.
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Originally published at www.refinery29.com.